Production

Using Inspiration to Light Your Film

In this video we are going to breakdown the process of using inspiration from other films to help you light your short film.

We did this same process to light our short film The Asylum Groove and If you haven't seen it yet you can find it here.

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First of all, you want to look for inspiration. Our short is set loosely in the 70s and in an Asylum, a film we took a lot of inspiration from was One flew over the cuckoo's nest. You can see this in the costume our main character is wearing. We have a video about that HERE.

You can create a moodboard of images which have a similar look to the film you want to make. We took inspiration from films and others were pieces of art we found online. This image of Gene Kelly in Thousands Cheer from 1943 inspired this shot, and this image inspired us to create the final shot in the film.

We are going to be talking about how we set up this shot in next week’s video. So if you haven't already consider subscribing.

Example images allow you to focus your attention and dial in the look of the film, so you can start to work out how to light it, the design of your costumes, and how you would like your location to look.

Now you have this inspiration you can start to make the creative choices which will make it your own.

The location we had for our film was an old assembly hall which had large windows that let in a lot of natural light.

This laid down the groundwork for how we were going to light the film and we wanted to embrace the natural light coming into the room.

It’s not always possible but if you can get into the location before the shoot and do some camera tests it will allow you to work out how you can light your film.

One of the main creative choices we made was to shoot at F8. The was because we wanted to show the detail of the location, as it was already old and grimy which suited the look of the film.

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This was another decision we made after looking at the reference images from films like Thousands Cheer and one flew over the cuckoo's nest both which have a deep focus.

Shooting at F8 also helped us prevent blowing out the window light, which again allows for the audience to see how old and grimy the location is.

One problem we had shooting at F8 was that our subject was underexposed, so we did a camera test. We placed our subject in the middle of the room with the window behind them on a bright sunny day, which would harshest lighting conditions we would encounter on the shooting day.

By using a light meter it told us if we wanted to expose the outside correctly we would have to shoot at a F-Stop of F16, and if we wanted to expose our subject correctly we would have to shoot at a F-Stop of F5.6. This was a 3 stop difference or a ratio of 8 to 1.

To get a little more dynamic range we decided to shoot in Cine 4 which would give us a little more information to work with in post.

With all of this information we worked out the lights we own would not be powerful and reliable enough to light the scene.

So we rented 3 Aputure 300d’s. These lights are rated to be the equivalent of a 2k light and are set at 5500K, this meant we did not have to gel the lights with CTB as they already matched the colour temperature of daylight.

One of the most versatile aspects of these lights is the bowens mount attachment which is on the front of the light. The light comes with a reflector cone, but you can also attach a Fresnel which we used for this shot.

The main attachment we used was a space light which essentially works the same way a china lantern.

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The original idea was to take advantage of the lighting rig we had in the room and hang the lights from there. We soon realised we would need to move the lights a lot more than we planned during the shoot.

Moving the lights helped to keep the exposure consistent and bring the lights closer to our actor, but still allow our actor to be able to move freely throughout the room.

So we put the lights on high up on stands and angled them downwards so the space light could hang down and spread the light evenly. We positioned the lights in front on the windows so the light would come from the same direction of the day light.

Now the light was evenly spread, it brought the exposure up in the room and created enough light so our subject was correctly exposed.

Everything at this point was very even, so to add a little contrast, the space light kit comes with flags which can be clipped onto the space light. We used them to block the light from hitting the background, therefore creating contrast between the subject and background which helps make him pop on screen.

Throughout the shoot we either moved the lights closer to the actor, or dimmed them down to get the correct exposure. The Aperture lights come with a remote which allows you to control each light from the one remote, meaning you can dim or turn off a light wirelessly.

The lighting setup we used on the film was super versatile, we could move the lights where ever we needed them, and they gave off a lot of soft light. Being so flexible allowed each setup to be setup quickly and save time on set, which was important as we shot this film in a day and a half.  

Taking inspiration from other films and art work really inspired us when lighting this film, and it can do the same for you. Find images that closely represent how you would like your film to look, and use them to drive your creativity to create new images.  


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Tips for Casting your First Actor

As zero budget filmmakers we find ourselves taking on a lot of roles, one of them being the casting director.

Today we are going to talk about some things YOU can do to advertise your film to talent, and what to look for in an actor. 

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Facebook is a good place to start. Ask your friends, ask your family, join filmmaking groups, and let everyone know you are casting your movie.

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If you have any filmmaking friends, avoid tagging them all in a single post. Give them a text or a call and personally ask them if they know of any actors who would be suitable for your film. They will be a lot more likely to help you if you go to them directly.

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You can use advertisement boards such as Craigslist, Gumtree, and casting websites like StarNow and Mandy. We’ve used these in the past and can work well.

One mistake you can make is not wanting to release the whole script; either because you are afraid someone will steal it, or you will give away spoilers, but try not to worry about this.

Release your script and let the actors read the whole thing. Don’t be precious about it, it’s only a short film, and you never know, that actor who wasn’t too sure about the project might finish the script and beg to be involved.

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So now you have interest in your film. You’ve set up some auditions. What do you do now?

There are 2 methods we’ve used for auditions; reading for a character in a scene, and performing a monologue. Both work well and can be used for different types of projects.

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If you have a lot of cast members and a lot of actors coming in for auditions, you might want to go with reading for a character. This way you can see a lot of actors doing the same thing and then make your mind up about the ideal person to play that role.

It’s worth filming each audition too. This way you can review them in more detail later.

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But if you have very little dialogue in your film, this method might not be the best one to use.

This is where the monologue comes in, and this was our choice when we were casting for The Asylum Groove because the film had very little dialogue.

Some of you might be asking “well why don’t you get them to perform the actions in the script?”.

This is all fair and good, but dancing around with a mop wasn’t the skill we needed for the performance because we WANTED the dancing to be rusty, so this wasn’t all that important. We were looking for the ability to express fine detailed emotions and the ability to take redirection.

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Adapting to redirection is one of the most vital skills you should be looking for in an actor and you can use monologues as a way to discover this in an actor during an audition.

Firstly, ask the actor to provide a monologue from a film which they think best mirrors the character in the script. This, initially, has them thinking about the script and how they perceive the story. If they show you that they understand the script, you are a step closer to casting the perfect actor.

During the audition, ask them to perform the monologue they’ve rehearsed. This is a great basis for someone’s acting ability. You can see their emotions, nuances, and range.

Then discuss the character in your film; their motivations, their traits, and their backstory.

With what you’ve discussed in mind, ask the actor to perform the same monologue from the perspective of the character in the script.

Holding the audition this way showed US several vital skills: the challenge of redirection and whether they would be able to change up their monologue, and their ability to think about the character, their traits, and how they would portray them.

If, after some redirection, the actors perform the monologue the same way, this is a sign that they might have rehearsed their monologue to concrete and aren’t able to change and mold to the direction given.

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This is a big warning sign to NOT go with this person because if they can’t be redirected in the audition, they might not listen to your direction during the shoot and not give you what you need for the character.


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5 Different Camera Rigs in 1 for $500

As an indie filmmaker we are always looking for equipment that has a good level of price to quality ratio. We have gone out and bought cheap equipment that works at first, but the quality doesn’t last.

For a few years now, anytime we’ve needed shoulder rig parts like rails, handles, or little mounts so we can add more accessories on to our rig, we have been using a company called SmallRig.

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They have found that sweet spot between quality and price.

SmallRig did send us over half of the equipment we will be talking about in this video, but the other half, we purchased ourselves over the last few years.

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Let’s start off with a bare bones setup. For most small cameras you can now get cages and from SmallRig we have a Sony a7s Mark 1 cage. [No. 2010]

We have reviewed other cages for the Sony A7s which you can find here:

This cage is one unit and you don’t have to disassemble the cage to take the camera out of it. You simply just place the camera in and screw it in from the bottom.

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Compared to the other cages we have used for the a7s, this one has a lot of room around the buttons and nothing is hidden behind any parts of the cage, so you can easily get access to them.

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It has 3 cold shoe connections so you can mount loads of accessories, and an HDMI clamp which is adjustable to fit different sized HDMI cables depending on which size you have.

You can also get a top handle for the cage. The one we have has loads of screw mounts so you can attach more accessories, but SmallRig have other top handles to choose from which also work with this cage.

The cage also has a Rosette connection which is built into the side. You can get many Rosette accessories, but the one we like the most is the wooden handle [1941] and it’s not just because it looks cool.

When going handheld, the grip is really comfortable, and it gets your hands away from the lens which prevents micro jitters.

If you’re not a fan of the wooden handle, you can also get a rubber handle like this one. [1963]

By having a Rosette connection on the side instead of a standard screw, it allows you to put a lot more pressure and tension on the handle and it won’t slip because of the small grooves of the Rosette.

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You can also get a bunch of other cages for other cameras from SmallRig, if you want to check them out for the camera you have.

This is the setup we would use most days, but when we are shooting a film we would set up the camera like this.

We will go into more detail about the other pieces of camera equipment we used to shoot our short film in a future video, so if you haven't already consider subscribing, but for now let's talk about how the SmallRig components have helped build this rig.

To be able to add more equipment to the camera, we added a rail mount system to the bottom. You can get a Manfrotto SmallRig baseplate to make this a little easier, but we already had this 15mm Rod Riser Clamp [1408]

This is the setup: we have a Manfrotto plate screwed into the Riser Clamp, which is screwed into the bottom of a Manfrotto release plate, then the camera slides on to this release plate.

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Then you can add 15mm rods to the riser and add a follow focus, a battery, or even a monitor by using this little clamp [843].

By setting up the camera this way, you can take the camera off the tripod with the rail mount attached, or you can release it from the tripod plate and leave the rail system behind.

This comes in handy if you just need to quickly pick up the camera and grab a shot without all of the other pieces of equipment attached.

This setup works well on a tripod, but where the SmallRig components really come in handy is when you are building a shoulder rig.

If you are trying to work out which components you need for your rig, go on the SmallRig website, look at what they have, and draw a couple of diagrams which has all of the components you are thinking to buy.

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By doing this, you can see which parts connect to other parts and work out what you need to build you rig.

The next setup we have is our shoulder rig setup. We swapped out the 15mm rods for longer ones so we could attach a shoulder pad [1483] and this cross front handle kit which has two rubber handles [998].

We have the camera as far back as possible so the weight is more on the shoulder and not front heavy. We can still see what we are shooting by using the same rod clamp as before to mount our monitor further forward with a Articulating Arm, [2066] so we can adjust the angle of the monitor with ease.

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We add all of the other pieces of camera equipment and we have this.

The wooden handle is not really needed on the cage so instead of using the cross front handle kit, you could get this Rosette to rod clamp so you can attach the wooden handle to the 15mm rods.

By only using the few parts we have, we’ve managed to build many different setups which work in different situations.

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You can get this Rosette extension arm so the rig handles are not straight in front but down by your side which is a lot more comfortable and it means you can tuck in your elbows creating steadier shots.

The cross front handle kit can be setup as a fig rig by turning the handles upside down and mounting them next to the camera.

All of the components from SmallRig are built out of metal; the nobs tighten well, and they are built with a ratchet system. So if you can not turn the nob any further, because something is in the way, you just need to pull it out, turn, and tighten.

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Like I said at the start of the video, SmallRig have a great price to quality ratio and they have lots of products that solve problems you didn’t even know you had.


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How to Give Your Shots Reason

The shots YOU use in your film aren’t just there to look fancy. Your shots convey the story on screen, and by giving your shots REASON and MOTIVATION, you can get a step closer to achieving the film look.

We’re breaking down how we applied reason and motivation to the shots in our latest film The Asylum Groove, you can watch it right here:

One thing we wanted to do with The Asylum Groove was give the camera characteristics. This way we could apply reason and motivation to every shot and try to tell the story as if the camera was alive.

So we thought of the camera as a really curious child. They have stumbled into an intriguing situation and throughout the scene they will want to learn more.

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This curious child will be trying to soak up all the important information in the scene and will be giving it back to the audience as entertainment.

Our character Sam has decided to lift his mop and dance to the music. But the camera stays in place. Our reasoning for this movement, or lack of movement, is because his dancing starts very suddenly.

The camera, AKA the curious child, is surprised by what is happening. They stay still and watch as they try to figure out this new piece of information. Sam dances backwards, distancing himself from the curious child. So what does the camera want to do? Get closer.

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Then we cut to a close up of the character. This is needed to clearly see the new expression of love and compassion on his face, a key emotional beat in the sequence. It is motivated by the curious child wanting to find out more about our character.

As humans we tend to read people’s facial expressions, so when there isn’t a lot of BIG information in the scene, we read the MICRO information.

The next big camera move compliments the two previous shots.

This time the curious child knows the character is about to resume dancing. The camera is intrigued and is now invested in the situation. The next shot cuts t o a wide, but this time the curious child follows along with the movement of the character and physically moves forward in order to get another look on his face.

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All of the shots in the Asylum Groove follow this process of the curious child. You can make your shots even more interesting by thinking of the child as someone who doesn’t always tell the truth and doesn’t always want to tell you everything straight away.

The entire beginning sequence of the film is shot with close up inserts, mostly of details, hinting story elements without outright displaying them. In this case, the curious child has joined the scene BEFORE the audience and is slowly giving clues, teasing the audience with small chunks of information.

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At the end, when we find out Sam is being electrocuted, the camera is confused. The curious child has just been transported to this new scene all of a sudden, so they are initially looking around their environment to figure out what is going on.

Once the camera understands the situation, and is faced with our character Sam RAGING on screen, it distances itself from him and the disturbing scene, pulling back, and ending in a wide shot.

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Your shots should have a place in the story. Instead of just shooting coverage, try to find the emotional or dramatic beats in the scene and bring the audience along for the journey - after all, the curious child is dictating what the audience can see. If the camera isn’t interested in the scene, why should the audience even pay attention?


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Stop Making Films by Yourself

Taking on multiple filmmaking roles is a great way to find out which areas you want to pursue. But there comes a time when you MUST give some of the key jobs to others if you want to make the best film possible.

We’ve made films were we’ve had a crew of 10 and we’ve made films where we had a crew of 2. On the barebones projects, this meant we were taking the role of: writer, director, camera operator, 1st AC, AD, sound recordist, and we were also the costume & props department.

Taking on all of these roles is great because you get to gain experience in different areas and it can help you work out which areas of filmmaking you want to pursue.

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The downside to multi-role projects is that you can’t give 100% of your time and energy to one role. If you’re the camera operator and director, you’ll spend half your time setting up the shot while the actors stand around, then spend the other half directing the performance while the crew stands around.

All of these roles are actually super fun and sometimes at the beginning you NEED to take on these roles just to get your film finished.

But spreading yourself too thin can make the film suffer. For our short film Keep the Change, I was camera operator and 1st AC, Rich was the sound recordist and we both directed when we got the chance.

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Directing is one of the areas of filmmaking we are the most passionate about, but because we were doing many other roles, the project suffered.

To help combat this, we started collaborating with more filmmakers.

We built up this small crew of filmmakers over the past few of years by attending local filmmaking networking groups, working on other people’s short films to get to know them, and looking at filmmaking Facebook pages to see if there was anyone in our local area making films.

At first, there was 2 of us, then 3, 4, 5, and on our latest short, The Asylum Groove, we had a core crew of 10. This is still a very small crew but it allowed everyone take on roles we were all passionate about, and it gave everyone a specific department and responsibility on set, which meant NO waiting around and wasting time.

I operated the camera, The other Rob was 1st AC and focus puller, Adam was the 2nd AC and clapper loader, and both Rob and Adam provided their invaluable grip skills.

For us, this still feels like a luxury, but we could see the benefit of having a larger camera department straight away.

At no point did I have to step away to do a different job. I concentrated on the image; the lighting, framing, and camera movement. Having the other Rob pull focus meant it was nailed every time, and having Adam set up the marks and frame edges meant we did very little technical retakes.

With me being on camera, Richard could concentrate on just directing. He could spend more time with our actor Chris, dialing in the different emotions he needed to feel at different points of the shoot.

If you’ve wrote a script and plan on directing the film, maybe think about getting someone else to shoot it.

You know the story more than anyone else, you know when each character needs to hit different emotional beats, so why not give your full attention to the performance?

Getting someone else to shoot your film is a big role to give away. If you know someone who can shoot, you can work closely with them in pre-production and plan how you would like the film to look. Onset you will both be working from the same plan and share a stronger collaborative vision.

For The Asylum Groove, we still had to double up roles. Emily, the producer, was also the 1st assistant director, and she even had a cameo at the end of the film. During takes, Rich held the reflector when we needed more light, Jack shot BTS but also recorded sound for the last two shots.

The people who help you make your film don’t all need to be experienced filmmakers. An extra pair of hands on set is a massive bonus, and there are roles such as boom operating, grip assistance, and being the reflector-holder which contribute so much to a film and don’t take a lot of practice to become sufficient.

When collaborating with other filmmakers, find out which areas they are most interested in. Take advantage of their knowledge and passion. From our experience, they are usually more skilled in a certain area than we are.

Don’t let having a small crew stop you from making your film, do whatever you can to make it, you might have a wicked time making it anyway. If you struggle through the process and things don’t come out as planned, at least you still went out there, made something, made mistakes and learned new skills. You can take all of the lessons you learn and apply them on your next film.

In the comments below let us know about your experiences of making short films and how other people have made them better. Also, if you haven't already hit the orange lens cap to subscribe, check out our short film here and remember to achieve it one shot at a time.


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Get The Film Look with Art Direction

If there is one aspect of zero budget filmmaking that gets overlooked more than any other, I feel it’s art direction and production design.

I’m talking about costumes, set dressing, props, graphics; the things that give a movie life. These are things which contribute towards achieving the film look and will give your film a convincing visual identity and will embed it into your make-believe world. But art direction also serves a bigger purpose than just making your film look cinematic.

Today we are going to talk about how YOU can use art direction to help tell a better story by giving the audience visual clues on screen. 

Today we are taking lessons we learned from shooting our latest short The Asylum Groove.

We were challenged to make a film with only a single word of dialogue.

With this in mind, we knew we would want to take advantage of cinema’s visual medium and use art direction to help tell the story, expose the universe, and give the audience clues as to when and where the film is set.

There are three main groups of art direction for a zero budget movie: You’ve got costume design, set design, and props. They all contribute something in their own way but all come together to create a fully fledged world.

First, lets cover costume.

The costume of your character, and the way they wear that costume, is a visual representation of their characteristics and their situation in the film. You can tell a lot about a character by the way they dress.

For The Asylum Groove, we wanted to use the costume as a way to give the audience the character’s backstory and to help him pop on screen, so we designed it in a few different ways.

Firstly, ill-fitting white scrubs. Yes, this costume is also worn by a doctor, nurse, or a surgeon, but by making them worn, unironed, and stamped with a registration number, it would help give the impression that the scrubs are a mass produced, unkempt, mandatory uniform.

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The creases and weathering also gives the costume some texture on screen, and as the scrubs are the brightest colour on screen, it also helps the character stand out from the background.

Costume design seems to work best when you give your costume a history or backstory. Most people don’t wear clothes that they’ve literally just bought that day, so think about your character, the types of clothes they would wear, and how long they have been wearing them before the moment the film begins.

The scrubs weren’t the only costume detail we added. His blue shirt underneath was to give the impression that he still retains some independence by wearing his own clothes underneath. This design also pays massive homage to One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, which this film is heavily inspired by.

We gave him cheap slippers which instantly negate any question that he might be a janitor or caretaker. The slippers also represent comfort and a relaxed attitude, so clearly he lives or stays in this location for a long period of time.

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The last detail are the rags hanging from his waist and pocket. We included these for a few reasons. Firstly, it shows he’s cleaning. Secondly, having something long and hanging down helps compliment the energy of him dancing and spinning as it flows and lifts when he moves.

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Next up we have props!

Props, and the design of those props, tell us about the character, the world, but most importantly, a prop is a totem of a character’s purpose in the story.

If you see someone flash a badge, you instantly think they are police or a detective, even without them wearing a uniform or saying a word.

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We wanted the audience to know within a few moments that our character had a job to do. So we gave him a mop and bucket. In terms of specifics, we wanted an old tin bucket.

This is a classic-look, and helps gives the film a pre-modern aesthetic. The mop needed to be old, dirty, and with a wooden handle, also helping set the film in the past and maybe even tell the audience that he’s been given sub-standard cleaning supplies for his job.

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The last major prop in the film was the vinyl record. From the get-go we knew this film would involve dancing to an old-school song. We wanted to help place the film around the 1970s, so we took an old record and designed, what we thought, was the most 70s label as possible: orange background, groovy disco font, and a simple design without anything super fancy in terms of graphics.

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This prop was also designed to be used as the title of the film, so we knew we wanted it to look as genuine as we could. Last up, we have set design!

Set design is arguably the hardest part of art direction for an indie and zero budget filmmaker. Whereas things like props and costume are usually quite small and personal, creating a convincing set (depending on the film you are making) is a mammoth task, but if done right, can be a powerful provider of clues to the audience about the world, the period, the state of the location, and the character’s situation.

We cheated a little bit with the set on The Asylum Groove: we actually wrote the script around the pre-existing location. We knew of the school assembly hall before we were even given the one word challenge, and we knew we wanted to use it for a film about people in an insane asylum.

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The location was already old, worn, dirty, and had the most horrible bright yellow walls. Instead of trying to convert it into something completely different, we used the location as the basis for the script and embraced the old, grimy look.

Building a world around an interesting looking location you already have access to will give you an easier job of creating a convincing set and also save you a lot of money.

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If there was one thing we wanted to tell the audience without OUTRIGHT telling them, it was WHY the character was cleaning. His reason for mopping isn’t necessarily a major plot point, but giving the character a true purpose on screen helps the audience settle into the film and not question it from the very first frame.

If the audience had to ask “Why’s he mopping?” at the beginning of the film, it just means we didn’t give the audience enough clues to his situation.

So we added a banner and balloons onto the back wall with “Bedsville Disco” painted on. We deliberately made a poor job of  he back wall, the banner is falling off and the balloons are not even finished. This was to give the audience the impression that the disco wasn’t a glamorous affair, and would fit closer to the derelict hall we had access to.

Episode.00_06_00_20.Still015.jpg

We added small details such as signs on the door with “dormitory” and “staff only”. We actually took these from the set of the One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest stage play.

Episode.00_06_17_12.Still016.jpg

Colour design was another thing we wanted to focus on with this film. Because of the bright yellow walls of the assembly hall, we knew we could use yellow’s complementary colour, BLUE, as an accent colour for the character and as a visual device to lead the audience's eyes.

Episode.00_06_26_07.Still017.jpg

This is why we picked a blue shirt, blue paint on his hand and the brush, a blue balloon placed on the wall, a bright blue record player, and blue nail varnish for the mother at the end. We wanted everything he interacted with to be blue.

The Asylum Groove FILM V1.247.Still005.jpg
Episode.00_06_32_03.Still018.jpg

One last we did was take advantage of the furniture left over in the room. The chairs and sofas were already there, so we placed them in a way which we left created a vacant audience for the character to dance to.

Episode.00_06_40_18.Still019.jpg

All of the furniture points in the direct of the character, and the angle of the chairs on stage actually point directly towards the framing of the execution, foreshadowing the audience viewing of the execution at the very end.

Not a hugely important detail, but we thought it could be a cool little bit to add in and maybe, subconsciously, it would add something to the storytelling. 

We even included the execution chair in the background after the moment the character snaps back into the reality when he trips over the bucket.

Episode.00_07_06_15.Still020.jpg

Obviously this is only our experience of art direction so far, and we have a lot to learn.

With this film, we suddenly realised how powerful of a storytelling device art direction can be. It can reduce your dialogue, give your audience visual hints towards the story and the world, and there’s no denying a great-looking set makes your film look a hell of a lot more cinematic.

A picture is worth a thousand words, and we as filmmakers should take advantage of that.


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How to Write a Film with NO Dialogue

Dialogue is both a pleasure and a pain. Throwing lines on a page is an easy way to increase your word count but writing well-written dialogue can be one of the most difficult parts of the screenwriting process.

Today we are going to share with YOU what WE learned from making a film that included only one word of dialogue. Check out The Asylum Groove below if you want to see the finished film. 

Nate over at Nate’s Film Tutorials challenged us to make a film with one key restriction: “you can only use one word of dialogue”.

This was a great challenge for us because we’ve been learning about different screenwriting techniques on the channel and wanted to put them all into practice.

So we knew a few things which would help us along the way:

- Firstly, the story needed to be 100% visual; no bloated backstory, a nice simple structure, a single goal, a single obstacle, and all represented on-screen through action.

- Secondly, limiting a character’s lines on screen is easier if they don’t have someone with which to communicate. So we decided to make it about one character in a single location.

This also helped keep the costs down and would speed up the production process, so happy days!

We knew we had access to an old school assembly hall through a contact with our previous film. From the moment we saw the location, we knew we wanted to make a film which looked and felt like the film One Flew Over a Cuckoo’s Nest.

At first we found writing the initial idea quite difficult. What should the word be? When should it be said? We soon realised that the word was becoming the focus of the script. Instead we decided to write the film without ANY dialogue and add a word back in where it would pack a punch.

So now we had a location, a character, and an initial direction to base the script on. We just had to give him a goal to achieve, some conflict to overcome, and some interesting characteristics.

A film without dialogue needs to get the character off their feet, moving around, and completing a task. This creates movement in the scene, gives the actor something to do, and gives the audience something to look at.

We gave the character a mop and a bucket and tasked him with cleaning the assembly hall for the Bedville Disco. Because we can’t explain the backstory of the character through interaction with another character or any form of dialogue, we had to make sure that it was his costume and the set which gave the audience clues about him and his surroundings.

How-to-Write-a-Film-with-NO-Dialogue.gif

His goal to mop the floor is soon taken over by his desire to dance to the music, which can be considered an obstacle.

How-to-Write-a-Film-with-NO-Dialogue2.gif

Dancing then transforms into his goal, which means another obstacle must be written in. He soon trips over the bucket and spills the water.

How-to-Write-a-Film-with-NO-Dialogue3.gif

His next goal is to clean up the water. What’s stopping him at this point is his moment of ecstasy as he splashes in the water.

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His final obstacle is when he is trapped in the electric chair. He wants answers, he wants to be set free. His final tactic is to cry for help and thrash around in the chair.

How-to-Write-a-Film-with-NO-Dialogue6.gif

We now have a character with a set of obstacles to overcome in order to achieve his goals, but there is something missing. We need to give him character.

Because this film is so short and essentially quite simple (one character, one location, and mundane tasks) the focus of the film was to create a lovable character through his actions and reactions, then flip our perception of the character on its head right at the end.

Because it's such a short film, we wanted to make sure it had a strong bite which left you remembering the story.

So how do you build up a likeable character without dialogue? Empathy.

The story is told through the character’s actions, and we learn the type of character he is through the way in which he performs them.

To create an empathetic character; someone we can relate to, enjoy their on-screen presence, and understand their troubles, we needed to familiarise his actions in this unique scenario.

Not everyone has been locked inside an insane asylum, but i’m sure we’ve all danced like nobody's watching. And if you are new to screenwriting, we have a video about the basics:

So, even though our character is in a place which most of us have little experience with, he’s human after all, and its those human moments which we connect to. We’ve all experienced: boredom, confusion, nostalgia, delight, panic, and rage.

Adding the word “Mama” into the story was the final moment of impact.

Because we only had a single word to use, it became very powerful. Everything was held up by this word, and the choice of word was important.

We toyed with having the character accepting death in the electric chair, saying the word “Ready”. We thought that way he was technically achieving his goal of accepting death.

Then we changed it to “No!” which flipped the film on its head and gave us the impact which we wanted.

Then we decided on using the word “Mama”. This helped couple the childlike mannerisms of the character, almost everyone understands a relationship between mother and son, and because that word is universally understood and means so much in so little, it gave us the hard hitting impact which we wanted.

Alfred Hitchcock is quoted as saying “Dialogue should simply be a sound among other sounds, just something that comes out of the mouths of people whose eyes tell the story in visual terms.”

Try grabbing your latest script, remove the dialogue, and see how much of the story is retained. This will test your script to see if you are writing something visual and you’ll be able to work out if you are relying too much on dialogue to further the plot.

Making a film without any dialogue, or in our case, a single repeated word, definitely gives you a better perspective on how precious dialogue can be and why we don’t always need to use words to tell a visual story.

This is just our process, so let us know what tips YOU have for writing a film with very limited dialogue.


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Coming to a Halt | Motivated Camera Moves

The best shots in a film aren’t always just the fancy, super expensive ones. The most effective shots in a film connect the cinema to the story and communicate the plot; whether that's using a tripod, a stabiliser, or even simply handheld.

This is what motivated camera moves are all about - and today we are going to talk about a move we call “coming to a halt”. Welcome to The Film Look.

Today we are using a page from the book “Master Shots” by Christopher Kenworthy. In particular, his chapter on “Revelations & Discoveries”, page 112, titled “MOVING ON”.

If you want to step up your game and learn how to connect your shots directly to your story, this is the book for you. We haven’t been paid to speak about this book, it’s just a great resource that every filmmaker should have access to.

Coming to a Halt.jpg

US links: 

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UK links:

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Let’s set the scene: EXT. BACK ALLEY - DAY

Jimmy Nine Fingers is being pursued by the police for stealing priceless necklaces from the jewellers. He’s finally made a break from the fuzz and runs into a back alley only to be stopped by Detective Rusty Johnson.

Coming-to-a-Halt-2.gif

There are a few things that aid the effectiveness of this shot, and it all links to the character and story motivation. Firstly you have the character. They are trying to escape a situation, this is why they are running. Then they collide with an obstacle, this is why they stop.

The shot type changes during the move. The motivation for this is to convey the BEST POSSIBLE story at that particular cinematic moment. We begin with a wide shot then land in a close up.

The actor’s performance at the beginning of the shot is almost entirely physical. They are running and we understand they are being chased. By the time they stop, the performance is in the actor’s facial expression. This is why we are landing so close at the end of the move - the performance is now all in the details.

The movement of the shot is complimented in two ways. Firstly the character is moving at great speed. The camera matches this speed and closes in. The actor and the camera land on their marks at the same time, which gives us a sense of fast movement coming to a rapid halt. It’s almost like the camera is the one stopping the character which serves as motivation for the camera move itself.

If we remove the camera movement and instead use a static camera, the effect of rapid movement coming to a halt is lost but we do retain the effect of the camera becoming the obstacle.

Coming-to-a-Halt-3.gif

This type of shot would work well if the character knows they have failed to reach their target in time...such as in Raiders of the Lost Ark when Indy know he will never find Marion in the crowd.

Coming-to-a-Halt-4.gif

If we have a static character coupled with a moving camera which stops, the rapid change in speed is lost and feels more like the camera move emphasises the character’s slow but strong reaction to something.

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This type of shot is also known as The Spielberg Face. 

Having three versions of this move is a powerful thing: you can make the choice to add or subtract emphasis on certain parts of this move and tailor it to suit YOUR film.

The tools you use to achieve this move will give you slightly different results. If you use a stabilizer for instance, in our case this is a handheld gimbal, you will get something which looks more clean cut and Hollywood-esque.

If you go handheld, the story beats will be the same but the move will contribute a more brutal approach, which would lend well to a war scene or documentary-style of film.

You can use this technique for a bunch of different scenarios:

  • A boy needs to get home before his mother gets back from the supermarket only to discover when he reaches the house that the car is already on the drive, or

  • The protagonist and his love interest are escaping a glass-walled facility but get stopped by a robot killing machine from the future.

Kenworthy goes into more detail about this move including shot height and blocking details. It’s definitely worth picking up a copy of Master Shots if direction and cinematography is your passion.


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DIY Equipment Cart

We’ve all been on set were all of your camera equipment is spread out on the floor in various black camera bags, hidden in a side pocket, or out of reach.

To solve this problem we have made a DIY equipment cart which can be used in a studio or on set.

The cart we used can be found on amazon: it is 75cm long, 70cm tall, the width is 35cm, and has 3 shelves. The wheels that come with this cart work for the amount of weight we are going to store on it, but you can always add some heavy duty wheels if you want.

We added pieces of carpet to each shelf, creating a softer surface for our equipment to be placed onto, and so it wouldn’t roll around.

We kept the top shelf of the cart clear so when setting up our camera rig we had a place for all of the pieces of equipment to go, whilst we assembled the rig on a tripod.

One thing we did attach to the top shelf was a flat headed screwdriver so anytime you need to add or remove the tripod plate you don’t need to be searching around for a coin in your pocket. Also, we added a bunch of Allen keys we use for our camera rigs.

Most equipment on the cart can be accessed from both sides, but we have made one side the front and one the back.

We’ve done this so everything will be setup in the same order, and if you are in a small place you can park it up correctly so you still have access to everything.

The second shelf is where most of the action is happening. On the right hand side we have all of the chargers we use which are connected to a extension cable that hangs off the side when not being used.

The main charger we use is for our Sony NP batteries as we use them to power our camera via a dummy battery, which you can find a video about that here.

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The charger we has a battery level percentage which comes in very handy.

The box behind has extra batteries and chargers that we do not use often, and it is also used to store the batteries and chargers when in transport.  

Once a battery is fully charged they move to a section on the left hand side.

We divided this section up with some white backing card, but cardboard would do the same job. Having it divided clearly shows were the charged batteries go.

Next we have a small section for the lenses we are using on the shoot. For our short films we switch between a 35, 58, and 85mm and having them on hand in a safe place saves time finding them in a bag. When a lens is being used, the caps from the lens are left on the cart, so they don’t go missing.

Since camera batteries and lenses are the thing you will will change the most, having a dedicated space allows everything to be stored correctly and safely.

It’s also a lot easier to direct someone to one place when changing a battery or lens, instead of them trying to find a battery in the pocket of a camera bag.

On the second shelf we also added LED lights so when it gets dark we can still see where everything goes.

The bottom shelf is where we store small equipment cases, as these normally still have power and audio cables, clips, and extra accessories inside which we might still need.

Next we have a place for our tool bag which is always handy on set, and the final box is where the flat batteries go when all of the charges are being used. Having this on a separate shelf makes sure the flat batteries do not get mixed with the charged ones.

On the front of the cart we have a plastic tube which holds our coloured gels, a velcro tape holder, a tin to store pens. These are all connect via bolts and wing nuts so everything can be easily removed if needed.

We also have a place for all of our metal clips and pegs to go. These are clipped on a piece of card so when in transport they can all be taken out of a camera bag and clipped to the cart.

This cart works well for us in our studio or on our short films. We already had some of the materials we used for this cart like the carpet and bolts, but we have estimated it would cost around £60 to make it from scratch and you can just keep adding to it until it suits you.

A professional equipment cart can cost over £1000, but this is because they are being used on films which has camera equipment that are much heavier and can cost hundreds of thousands pounds, so you will probably want to use a cart that costs thousands.

We still have a few things we want to add to this cart and we would love to hear your suggestions.

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Get Better Looking Gunshots in the Dark

Gunshots: one of the most popular visual effects techniques used on YouTube. Getting gunshots to look great can take some tweaking - and achieving a realistic gunshot effect in the dark is even more difficult. But there are some things YOU can do to help achieve a realistic gunshot in the dark.

Shooting gun.jpg

A gunshot is essentially a small explosion. And an explosion primarily produces light and sound. The sound part of this technique is pretty straight forward. You download a gunshot sound effect, sync it to the muzzle flash, tweak the sound a bit, and away you go.

If your gunshots are sounding too similar and you are starting to hear some repetition, we have a video about how to make them sound better:

The explosion from the gunshot produces a massive amount of light in a split second, and in a dark scene this will be amplified.

You CAN add some fake light spill in post-production for your daytime shots. You can do this by duplicating your layer, mask around the subject where you want it to brighten, brighten it up with something like a curves or exposure adjustment, and feather out the mask to blend it all together. It only shows for a single frame so it works well enough. But this won’t work for a dark environment because you simply can’t fake a realistic fall-off of light.

fake light.jpg

In this case, you’ll need to produce a real-life flash during the gunshot. This is what we learned from the process:

Using a Flash

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The initial idea was to use a portable camera flash. It has a button on it to test the flash so the plan was to hit the flash whenever the subject fires. After trying this out we soon realised that because of the small differences in shutter speed, frame rate, and rolling shutter, the flash was giving us shutter interference, resulting in a frame that looked like this. No good.

Gunshots in the Dark.00_01_45_21.Still001.jpg

Flashlight

flashlight.jpg

Next on the list was a flashlight. This was getting us closer to the result but it simply wasn’t bright enough.

Aputure LED panel

LED panel.jpg

Finally we tried this LED panel from Aputure. The great thing about this light for this effect in particular is that it has a light switch separate from the intensity dial. Some cheaper lights have a dial which clicks on then turns up. But if you can get a light which switches on and off with a simple click, it will make this effect a lot easier. 

Gunshot in the Dark.jpg

Our findings

So the light must be super bright. You want it to highlight your subjects face and light up some of the background for maximum effect. We dialled it in so it didn’t completely blow out but produced a very hot highlight.

Now the most important part of making this effect look good are the steps you’ll take to capture the light flash.

A muzzle flash from the gun happens directly after pulling the trigger, but BEFORE the recoil from the explosion. The recoil is the pressure of the gun jolting your wrist back, so the steps are very important to make it look realistic.

LED wide.jpg

Pull the trigger, then freeze in place. Flick the light on, then flick the light off. Then simulate the recoil. Rinse and repeat.

In your editor you will make a cut on the frame the trigger is pulled. Then go to where the light is at its brightest, make a cut, delete the footage in between and join it together. Then scroll along and find the moment of recoil. Make a cut and take out the gap here too. The light should be on screen for only a single frame, and this is where you will add your muzzle flash and smoke elements.

One downside to this effect is that we were only able to produce it from a static camera angle. We tested a few different ways to simulate the light in a moving shot: one by shooting a take without the light, then shooting a take with the light on, and trying to match up the takes. But unless the takes are near identical, the cut looks far too jarring. So if you guys think you have a solution for producing this in a moving shot, let us know in the comments below, or better yet, show us how you did it in a video!

Visual effects work most effectively when they EMBED into the physical scene. Compositing effects onto footage without ANY physical interaction will result in tacky-looking VFX. So if you want your visual effects to shine, think about what those effects would produce in the real-world and try to replicate it.


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3 Tricks to Recording Dialogue in a Wide Shot

You’ve just set up an great-looking wide shot during a pinnacle moment of your film. You want to hold the wide shot for the majority of the scene because you want to utilise the close up for the climax.

Problem is, your lav mic is cheap and doesn’t sound great and the boom pole for your shotgun mic is too short to to capture your actors lines! There are few ways to tackle this problem!

There are a few different ways you can capture audio in a wide shot without having to purchase more equipment like extra long boom poles or more expensive radio mics.

Turn your talent around

Close ups are your best opportunity to record clean dialogue because you can position the microphone really close to your actors without getting it in the frame.

More on positioning your microphone here! It’s the first step to great sound!

If you can find a different angle where you can no longer read the actor’s lips such as from behind, from the side, or so far away you can’t barely even make them out, you can edit in the audio from the close ups and the audience will be none-the-wiser! Just make sure you aren’t changing the overall vision and direction of the scene.

From the side.jpg

Plant a microphone

If there is an object between the camera and the actors, you could use it to hide the microphone in shot; such as a tree a bin or a car. Aim the microphone towards your actors and get it as close as possible. You might have to position your actors closer to the planted microphone to capture your actor’s lines better.

planting a mic.jpg

Again, try to find a middle ground between standing to your creative vision and capturing solid audio. There’s nothing worse than bad audio in a film.

Paint out your sound recordist

If the other 2 options simply won’t work: you need to see their lips, and there are no objects to plant a mic, you can still capture great audio by employing some post-production movie magic.

As long as the sound recordist isn’t physically in the way of the actor in the scene you can use something called a clean plate to remove the sound recordist in post production.

Film your scene with the sound recordist booming the mic beside the actor, then ask the sound recordist to leave the frame and keep rolling so you have plenty of footage of empty space.

Clean-Plate.gif

In post-production you can use the empty frame you captured to place it in front of the sound recordist, masking them out of the shot. Add a little feathering to the mask layer and you should have yourself a convincing clean plate.

There are some things that might disrupt the effectiveness of this technique.

Please be aware of any shadows or reflections being cast by the sound recordist, as well as any drastic changes in light. You can avoid the shadows and reflections by having the sound recordist stand on the other side of the frame. A ghostly reflection of a sound recordist will break the illusion. And if the sun just went behind the clouds - your clean plate will no longer work.

3 Tricks to Recording Dialogue in a Wide Shot

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Understanding White Balance

White balance can be confusing. You've got all these different settings to choose from; degrees, kelvin, tints, gels, temperature. So when, what, and why do you choose certain settings?

It becomes a lot more clear once you wrap your head around a few simple things. Today we’re going to try to understand white balance. 

The Starting Point: Sunlight

Sunlight is pure white, the whitest of white. It's the global standard for all things light and colour because that big shiny ball in the sky is what illuminates our world.

White Balance - Day Light.jpg

So this is our starting position - our default, and we can compare all other light to sunlight.

Cameras measure colour temperature in Degrees Kelvin. The colour of sunlight is 5500K. Everything up the scale is cooler and everything down the scale is warmer. You can go across the scale, but for today we are concentrating on the essentials.

Fooling Your Camera

The pre-made white balance settings in your camera are there to trick the camera into believing a different colour is white.

 Tungsten lights AKA household bulbs, for example, are naturally warmer than sunlight. They appear, compared to the white of sunlight, quite orange. On the Kelvin scale, they sit at 3200k.

This is where the trick comes in. You can fool the camera into believing these warmer lights are white.

If you were shooting a scene indoors and needed to add white light but only had tungsten lights, you can tell the camera to turn those white.

White-Balance-Change.gif

But be warned, once you start fooling the camera, you are sliding the entire Kelvin scale in that direction too.

If you tell the camera warm is white, that means everything the camera sees becomes colder. The warm light becomes white, white becomes cold and blue-ish, and all colour gets adjusted in that direction.

Sticking to Daylight Balance

If you are shooting a night scene indoors beside a desk with a warm desk lamp, you might think you have to set this lamp to white, because...white balance. But what if you want it warm? What if the warm, orange evening look is what you are going for? Then keep the white balance to daylight.

White-Balance-Keeping-it-warm.gif

There is no law that says the light HAS to be white.

Shoot the image as close to the intentional final image. If you want it warm, shoot it warm. But shooting it safe, and shooting it white, then adding a little warmth in post isn't a bad decision either.It's customary to provide some white light into the warm scene to see the colour contrast between the warm and cold tones. It helps the warmth stand out and prevent it from becoming muddy.

Sunlight must be white

It’s fair to say that if you have sunlight in your scene, it needs to be white.

If you have a scene with a warm lamp in it but also have a window with daylight pouring in, you will want to set the white balance back to daylight. If you set the warm light to daylight balance, the sunlight coming through the window will turn very blue which will make the scene look really strange. This is a clear sign of the ameuter look.

White-Balance--Day-Light.gif

Simulating moonlight is a whole different ball game, but if it's supposed to be sunlight, it should really be white.

Gels

Gels are there to adjust the white balance of a light directly from its source, rather than in camera. It's very similar to adjusting the settings on the camera, but instead of fooling the camera from inside, you are fooling the source of light. 

White-Balance--Adding-Gels.gif

Let's go back to the warm desk lamp during the day. You might not want the desk lamp to be so warm, but changing the camera settings to fool the warm light to look white will mess up the colour of the sunlight. By adding a blue gel to the warm lamp, and keeping the camera's settings to daylight balance, the sunlight will be white, and the lamp will be significantly cooled down. 

So that’s the very basics of white balance! 


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How to Shoot Faster on Set

A way you can work faster on set is by being organised and knowing what you need to shoot before day 1 of principle photography. So what is the process of turning the pages of your script into a production plan?

In a previous episode we spoke about the process of breaking down your script and extracting all of the different props, costumes, locations, cast, and any other things you need in order to make your film.

The process of working out which shots you need is very similar, but instead of extracting this information you need to add it.

Shot List

This is the script for our short film Backstage and once it was complete we went through the script and started to note down some of the shots we thought we needed.

A wide shot then a close up here, over the shoulder shot here. You can start to create a shot list, for now pen and paper will work, or even Word, but if you have access to something like shot lister, it’ll keep you more organised.

Paper-Shotlist.gif

Test Shooting

Now you have a brief list of what you need, test shoot these shots.

If you can go to the location you will be shooting in, this will help you work out if you the shots you have written down will give you enough coverage, and if you need to add some extra shots.

During the test shooting at the location you can work out the blocking and test the lighting:

Storyboards

For our short film Backstage we went to the main location and walked through the script, working out where each actor would stand, where the camera would be, and taking stills to create our story boards. Storyboards do not need to be detailed pieces of art, especially if you can not draw like us, but you now have something visual to show the cast and crew. Here is an example:

Storyboarding-using-Photographs.gif

For the storyboard Richard stood in place where The Medium would be, looked in the correct direction, and since we did not take a tripod I put my hand in front of the camera to create the Over the shoulder shot.

If you can not use the location before you shoot, the next best thing is to test out your shots in your living room or bedroom. We also did this for the last scene in our short film, as the location would be not ready to shoot until the day, but we still wanted to be prepared.

So me and Rich worked out which shots we would need, setup the camera with the correct focal length, and we just stood in place. It may not look fancy, but on the day we knew the types of shots we needed to film.

Lining a Script

Once you have gone through your script you can now create your final shot list. We use shot lister to do this, but there are many other programs out there and a lot of people just use word. From your final shot list and storyboards you can now go back to your script and line it.

Lining your script means putting a line through a section of your script which indicates when each shot should start and when it should cut. Here is an example: 

Shot 1P is at the end of scene 1, and is when The Medium is talking face to face with the Flyswatter for the first time as he has just come out of the toilet cubicle. There would be no point filming this shot of The Medium before this point, so on the script write down when this shot should start.

1P starts with The Medium delivering the line ‘Who Rocky Johnson’, The Flyswatter will pack up his stuff, walk out of the cubicle, The Medium will start to deliver his line, the toilet door will open, King Tonga and Bobby Jazzler enter the room, The Medium will finishes his lines, then shot cuts.

Shot 1J K L M N and O of the film is the same section of the script as shot 1P, all covering different angles.

Pre-lining a script.jpg

One piece of advice would be to get your actors to start a couple of lines before each shot would start, this helps them lead back into the role, in terms of dialogue and actions.

Another reason lining a script is important is because it lets you know how long each shot should last, and from this information you can work out it will take to shoot each shot.

Shot 3C, a WS of Jenny the stage manager which goes through a full page, you will know that the shot will take longer to shoot than 3D which only goes through only a paragraph. With this information you can schedule your shot list in a order that works best for you.

Now you have the information from your test shooting about the shots you need, your storyboards are created, and your script is lined, you should have a clear understanding of what you need to shoot, helping you shoot faster on set.

The script for our short film Backstage was 7 pages long, these techniques will work if your script is 1 or 90 pages long.


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how to shoot faster on set

DISCLAIMERS:

Some of these links are affiliate links, if you purchase gear via these links The Film Look will receive a small commission, but there will be no additional cost to you. Thank you!

The Cost of a Short Film: Backstage

How much does a short film cost to make? You might as well ask how long is a piece of string.

Let's put the film into some context. Backstage is 9 minutes long and it was shot over 3 days. Let’s break the cost of the film.

Backstage Cast.jpg

Cast: £0.00

We had a main cast of 3, Liam, Dan, and Aja. We also had a supporting cast of 3, James, Rich and Me. The 3 main cast and our 1 supporting cast member all worked on the film for free because they just wanted to help make the film.

Backstage Crew.jpg

Crew: £0.00

Our crew size was 8, we had Emily who was the producer and 1st AD, Rob (not me) was a 1st AC, Ed was on sound, Kristian was our script supervisor, Adam filmed this wicked steadicam shot, Jack filmed BTS, and Alex was our clapper loader.

Just like the cast, our crew worked on the film for free.

Backstage Food.jpg

Food: £115

Since the cast and crew worked for free we made sure we provided food and drinks. Even if you are making a no budget film, make sure you provided food for your cast and crew, it goes a long way.

Backstage Travel Expenses.jpg

Travel Expenses: £71.70

Along with the food for the cast and crew we paid for people's travel expenses. You don’t want people to be out of pocket for your film.

Backstage Locations.jpg

Locations: £100

The location we used for the film was an old school which is ran by a local church. They allowed us to use the location for free, whenever we wanted. We did not have to, but we did make a donation to the church for allowing us to have access. If you find yourself in this situation, just work out what you can afford. You don’t have to donate a lot, and whatever you do will always be appreciated.

Backstage Props.jpg

Props: £0.00

The only prop that we really needed in the film was the announcer's microphone. We made this out of cardboard and foam which we had laying around, so it didn't cost anything.

Backstage Costume.jpg

Costume: £93.39

When writing this film we knew we would need to spend a bit of money making sure our characters fit into the world. Some of the costume items we had to buy were the Mediums yellow shirt and waistcoat, the fly swatters Knee pads, headphones, and even this foam hand.

Backstage Set Design.jpg

Set Design: £80.93

The location we had for the set was very flexible, we boarded up the windows and created skirts for the lights with cardboard we already had, but we did spend money on paint. To dress the rest of the set we only used what we already had, and ordered some event posters for the room.

Backstage Music.jpg

Music: £0.00

The music in the film is all original and was created by our friend Jordan who runs Pamplemousse Recording Studio. He did this as a favour as he just wanted to help create the film.

When we started this project we put aside £350 to make Backstage. The total cost of the film was £470. Slightly over our original budget but just by a little.

In the list we did not include the camera equipment we used to make the film. The reason for this is because the camera equipment did not cost us anything for this production as we already own the kit we used, and have for sometime now.

Backstage Equipment.jpg

Anything we personally do not own like the wireless follow focus and disco light that we used to make the film were all borrowed and provided in kind.

Backstage could have been shot on more expensive equipment, but it could have also been shot on camera equipment which was cheaper.

For the purpose for this list we have included a rough cost of the equipment if you were starting for nothing. £4,850. The total cost now comes to £5,320.

If you already own the camera equipment and it is good enough for you to make films, just go out there and make films. We spent £470 making Backstage and in the grand scheme of things this it not a lot of money and you don’t even need to spend that much.


Cost of a Short Film - Backstage.jpg

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Some of these links are affiliate links, if you purchase gear via these links The Film Look will receive a small commission, but there will be no additional cost to you. Thank you!

BTS: Day Three of Backstage

A fly on the wall experience of the making of our latest film Backstage! We had a load of fun making it and wanted to share with you our process of shooting the film.

If you haven't seen our short film Backstage you can find the link below.

 


Behind the scenes of The Film Look Day 3 of Backstage
Behind the scenes of The Film Look Day 3 of Backstage - Robert Carr - Liam Angus - Richard Scott

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How to Dress a Set

So you’ve found a location to shoot our film but it doesn’t quite look or feel like how you see it in your head.

In order for it to suit the tone of your film you need to add some things, remove some things, and change some things. This week we are talking about set dressing.

Your choice of location is arguably just as important as the actors you cast. The location is an extension of what is happening in the foreground, and dressing the set to match the tone of the film, or a character's persona, will help you get closer to achieving The Film Look.

This is what the location looked like before we dressed the set for our short film Backstage which is set in a locker room at a local wrestling event in the 1980s.

Location-for-the-film-look-Backstage

The location we had access to was a boys bathroom in an disused school, and we had a lot of freedom to turn it into the set we wanted. Since the film is about a local wrestling event, the backstage locker needed to look old and dirty.

Our idea was that the event is being held at a rundown community centre ran by Mucky Mickey, who does not do a lot of cleaning. Since the school had been closed for about 6 years, it definitely looked old and we actually had to clean it a little.

If we went for a location that was new, say a gym's locker room, everything would have looked relativity new and it would have cost a lot of money to age it. We blocked out all of the windows to control all of the light.

We also did this to make it look like the windows have been broken and boarded up, further creating the idea that this is not the nicest of places.

You don't see it in the film but we added a sign on one of the cubicle doors that says - ‘Out of order - Broken Window’ to help sell the effect even more.

Since this is a community centre there would be posters, leaflets, and notices for other events that would be happening at the community centre.You can see these on the back of the door and the window boards. You can’t read what these say but it adds colour and depth into the background.

The-Film-Look-Set-Dressing

Since this is a wrestling match we added the event posters and flyers all of over the room, again to add depth. Since one of our characters is nervous about wrestling in his first match, we wanted to make sure the event posters are always looking at him.

Finally we added hair gel, deodorant, towels, wrestling costumes, and peoples clothing.

Dressing the backstage set took us about a full day to collect everything we needed, board all of the windows, and actually dress the set. By having such a flexible location we were able to dress and leave the set in a shootable condition a week before we started shooting.

This saved us time on the shooting day as we just needed to turn up and get started. Set dressing, at least from what we’ve achieved, is about telling a story at the location.

You want someone to be able to walk into the room and make a really good guess as to what this film or scene is about by dropping visual hints.

So next time you find a location, ask yourself what the location is currently tell you, and what you can do to make it tell the right story.


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How To Dress a Set

DISCLAIMERS:

Some of these links are affiliate links, if you purchase gear via these links The Film Look will receive a small commission, but there will be no additional cost to you. Thank you!


BTS Day Two of Backstage

A fly on the wall experience of the making of our latest film Backstage! We had a load of fun making it and wanted to share with you our process of shooting the film.

If you haven't seen our short film Backstage you can find the link below.


BTS: Day 2 - The Film Look Team
DJI Wireless setup

DISCLAIMERS:

Some of these links are affiliate links, if you purchase gear via these links The Film Look will receive a small commission, but there will be no additional cost to you. Thank you!


BTS: Day One of Backstage

 

A fly on the wall experience of the making of our latest film Backstage! We had a load of fun making it and wanted to share with you our process of shooting the film.

If you would like to watch our short film you can find it below:


Behind The Scenes The Film Look
BTS The Film Look

DISCLAIMERS:

Some of these links are affiliate links, if you purchase gear via these links The Film Look will receive a small commission, but there will be no additional cost to you. Thank you!


Shooting B-Roll | Episode 5: Video Production Guide

In the last episode we spoke about how to shoot an interview. Most videos will need some form of B-Roll to layer over the interview and that is what we are going to talk about in this video.

Welcome to The Film Look and episode 5 of the Video Production Guide.

Video Production - Shooting B-Roll.jpg

 

Capturing B-Roll can be done in many different ways, but it will also depend on the type of kit you can afford, and don’t worry if you can not afford the best equipment now. Concentrate on the equipment you do own and make as much money with it as you can.

But if you have a slider, use a slider, if your client needs a drone shot price for a drone shot, but remember if you only have a camera and a tripod, a well composed shot always trumps the fancy ones.

B-Roll doesn’t just help you shape the interview or voice over into a story, it also helps you hide the cuts you’ve made to the footage. B roll will hide the unnecessary answers, pauses, ums and errs. 

By using some audio transitions you can blend the audio cuts together and prevent the sound from popping. 

There are loads of different techniques when it comes to capturing B-Roll, but each shot needs to represent what your client is trying to sell, offer, or promote.

Slider

Clients love slider shots as the clean movement turns a boring conference room into something more interesting. With some distance between the background and subject, you can create a parallax sliding effect, which can really enhance the shot of a product or piece of art. We have a video all about how to use a slider on our channel.

Drone

In the last couple of years drone shots have become the new slider shots. Just like slider shots, they can be overused and 95% of jobs usually don’t need them. Unless you have a passion for flying drones, budget in for a professional who already has their wings. It will save you time and money, as getting a drone pilot's licence is expensive and time consuming. If the client is asking for a drone simply because it looks cool, let them know a solid story is always the better option. It’s not all about the fancy shots.

Handheld

Video Production - Handheld.jpg

Handheld shots can help you move quickly, and create dynamic shots. The cliche video production handheld shot is to follow your subject walking. [Shots from Projects]

When shooting a busy event there is never really a safe space to setup a tripod, so handheld is definitely the way to go. Using a shoulder rig will allow you to move around freely, and combining that with a monopod will give you the chance to also capture static shots. [Shots from Projects and equipment set up shot]

Slowmo

Slow motion is great to shoot in if the subject in the frame is moving. Clients love it and it’s really easy to do. Just adjust your settings from 24 fps to, for example 60, and double your shutter speed from 1/50 to 1/100. Then you can half the speed of the footage in your editor.

In episode 2 of this guide we spoke about preparing a shot list and storyboards before the shooting day. 

Use this on the day and tick off everything you wrote down as you don’t want to miss something your client asked you to capture.

Take your time when capturing the B-Roll. At first it may seem like it’s less important than any other footage, but the quality of your b roll will make or break the final video. Be patient, and do multiple takes if necessary. 

Don’t Over shoot

When you start to shoot videos you will have the tendency to overshoot, it’s not a bad thing but you will start to realise the more you shoot, the more time you’ll be sorting through the footage, and the more storage space you will need.

If the final video length needs to be 2 minutes you don’t need to shoot an hours worth of B-Roll shots.

Whatever tools and techniques you use to capture your b-roll shots, remember that every shot needs to help you tell a story. Practice makes perfect, and eventually you will be able to turn up at a location and know exactly what will look good because you’ve likely shot somewhere like this before. 

And remember to enjoy it! It might feel stressful to begin with, but just remember to take your time and enjoy yourself.


The Video Production Guide is a step by step series teaching you the basics of shooting videos for clients.

Episodes released Weekly:

Want to make videos for a client: https://youtu.be/bBkQpobfAjU

How to get the job: https://youtu.be/A1-09ESSZew

How much to charge: https://youtu.be/3Djuh-xTL6Y

Preparing for a client shoot: https://youtu.be/sDbbKaaPjc4

How to shoot an interview: https://youtu.be/8TRdmj0Ao4k

Shooting b-roll: https://youtu.be/RYc2y_dsexI

Editing and Feedback: https://youtu.be/ipMmMp-241o

The Client Video: https://youtu.be/X9VZTuxvT9w


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Shooting B-Roll Video Production Guide
Video Production Guide Shooting B-Roll

DISCLAIMERS:

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How to light a Séance | Lighting Setup #3

We made this music video which had a seance scene and in this video we are going to show you how easy it was to set up.

A link to the music video can be found in the description below. Today we are going to recreate  that set-up. First we tried to set it up in our studio, but because of the lack of space we could not separate our subject from the background. So we found a better location at our friend’s flat which had a perfect layout.

To create the scene with the look we wanted, we placed a round table in the middle of the room with a red tablecloth, placed a chessboard on top of it and placed two chairs at an angle for our subjects. Then we started to set up the lights.

Key Light

The key light is the main room light. It uses an 80 watt bulb with a colour temperature of 2800 kelvin which is a very warm looking light. It was hanging 1.7 meters above the table, and by wrapping the lamp shade with the sleeve of a 5-in-1 reflector we were able to cast the light solely down onto the table. We wrapped it with the silver side on the inside to maximise the brightness of the bulb.

Lighting-Setup-3---Without-Reflector.jpg
Lighting-Setup-3---With-Reflector.jpg

Fill Light

There was not really a fill light in this scene. The red tablecloth did add some fill under the subject's face but it was very subtle. If you need more light for your subject you could change the tablecloth to white which will create more bounce from the light above.

Edge Light

To help set the mood of a Seance we used candles in the background which always look cool, especially when you are shooting at a low F-Stop. If you don’t what to use candles, fairy lights are a good alternative.

fairy-lights-lighting-a-film.jpg

Camera

The camera we used was a Sony A7s. For the close ups we used a 50mm lens set to F1.8 and for the two shot we used a 35mm lens which could only stop down to F3.5, so the ISO changed from 1000 on the 50mm to 5000 ISO on the 35mm lens.

The shutter was set to 1/50 and the colour temperature was set to 2700 kelvin making our key light white for our subjects, but making the candle light a little bit warmer to suit the scene.

In the music version of this set up we filmed it by using a technique called lens whacking which means disconnecting the lens from the camera which allows more light to hit your sensor from different angles. The reason we used this technique is because the location we shot in only had white walls which is not great to look at, lens whacking made the location look a little more interesting.

Here is the setup before, after, and what the final grade looked like.

How-to-light-a-Séance---Before.jpg
How-to-light-a-Séance---After.jpg

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Equipment Links

🎥 This episode's kit/gear/equipment:

US links:

5-in-1 reflector: http://amzn.to/2wYzT5Q

Sony a7s: http://amzn.to/2wZ5gbv

Canon 50mm f/1.8: http://amzn.to/2xHAfMU

Takumar 35mm: http://amzn.to/2wYhmXt

UK links:

5-in-1 reflector: http://amzn.to/2fBrKNs

Sony a7s: http://amzn.to/2fBcsZ5

Canon 50mm f/1.8: http://amzn.to/2fBsH8q

Takumar 35mm: http://amzn.to/2fAYFSd

 

How to light a Séance
lumu-light-metre.jpg

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Some of these links are affiliate links, if you purchase gear via these links The Film Look will receive a small commission, but there will be no additional cost to you. Thank you!